Majestic mountains
Among the mountains, impossible not to
catch the Monviso's snow capped top shining
in the sunlight, 3,481 metres of
majesty reaching up towards the sky
whilst hugging the horizon.
The Monviso,
"Vesulus" for the ancient Romans, from
the slopes of which the Po springs, is a
symbol, a challenge and a source of inspiration.
Quintino Sella reached its top on
August 12, 1862 and it was following that
climb that the statesman had the idea of
founding CAI - Italian Alpine Club. The
fascination of this rock pyramid travelled
overseas, indeed the Hollywood producers
of Paramount elected it as their
"trade mark"!
To the right of Monviso
other tops can be admired, perhaps they
aren't as famous but they are certainly not
secondary for natural richness: the Rocciamelone (3538 m) and - slightly further
- the Musinè recognisable by the cross
standing on its top. It is an ideal destination
to enjoy a day of trekking without
going too far.At the far right, those with an
expert eye will certainly be able to spot the
Gran Paradiso (4061 m) hosting the homonymous
National Park, on the border
with Valle d'Aosta.
Sinuous hills
Shifting your glance from the mountains
to the sinuous shapes of the hills, you feel
an invitation to abandon yourself to the
relaxing greenery of the vegetation that
has so strongly inspired writers and poets.
"The hills above were beautiful when
returning, smoking the pipe, and although
it was June, at that time of day they were
still veiled with humidity, fresh breath
from the roots" wrote Cesare Pavese about the hills surrounding Turin in one of
his most fascinating novels: "Il diavolo
sulle colline" (The devil on the hills).
Among the rolling hills, the elegance and
imposing Basilica di Superga (foto), stands
out. Definitely a masterpiece designed by
the genius of baroque Filippo Juvarra. And
also the Monte dei Cappuccini (foto) emerges,
proud in its solitude. It is a favourite destination
for those summer evenings in
which one escapes the noise and the
crowds by searching for a hermitic and
bucolic place.
Outstanding monuments
Walking around the old city centre quarters,
and leaving behind the protection
offered by the porticoes, looking upwards
you are struck by the succession of historical
buildings and palaces, engraved
cornerstones, flower filled balconies and
curious little windows on the attics, originally
inhabited by rich families' servants.
Above all the Mole Antonelliana (foto), whose
dome is decorated by a series of red light
numbers that may seem a thermometer
but, instead, are tied to a mathematical
secret. Indeed, they are the creation of Turin's
artist Mario Merz, inspired by the
"Fibonacci series" and titled, not by chance,
"Il volo dei numeri" (The flight of numbers).
Naturally, they are part of the "Luci
d'artista" (Artist lights) project that illuminates
the city with its many odd creations.
From corso Francia - the longest boulevard
in Europe! - looking towards its western
end, quite hard to see, you can make
out the hill on which Rivoli Castle stands.
In this corner, where hills and mountains
seem to join together, the sky at sunset
contributes to the landscape's magic with
pink and orange brush strokes, fading in
the clouds' vapour. A perfect picture to
elegantly close a day passed in the sun's
company.
So night is born. The magic "sky of Turin"
reveals new aspects and looking up you
might find new perspectives. Best of all if
you decide to look from the hill where the
new and modern city planetarium is located
(www.planetarioditorino.it). Here the
planetarium and the observatory are placed
side by side offering viewers, dreamers,
scientists, a star light view that illuminates
Turin in an unusual way.
The best terrace to admire the city in its
wholeness is at 715 metres above sea level,
on the Colle della Maddalena. It is the
highest among Turin's hills: the best way
to enjoy the full view is to sit on a bench
beneath the "Faro della Vittoria" (Victory
beacon). Having the entire city at one's
feet gives the impression of being able to
keep every single corner under control.
Observing them from here, the aristocratic
buildings look majestic and elegant.Try
this game: recognise the city's monuments
by their shapes: from Palazzo Reale
(foto) to the Valentino Castle (foto). Another breath taking
panoramic spot, not recommended
for those suffering from vertigo, can be
reached bytaking the lift inside the Mole
Antonelliana (foto): on the top terrace you can
observe the entire city from its very heart.
Those university students susceptible to
the legend by which the Mole is a place to
avoid at all costs before graduation, content
themselves with the top floors of the
nearby Palazzo Nuovo (New Palace): the
panorama from the fifth floor library is
guaranteed!
And again the Monte dei Cappuccini,
reachable on foot from piazza Vittorio,
offers a magnificent view of the city
and its hill parks: Parco di San Vito (strada
San Vito 185), Parco Leopardi (corso
Moncalieri 147), Parco Europa (Cavoretto)...
Also not to be missed is the view from
the Basilica di Superga (foto), aligned with
Turin's Palazzo Reale (foto) and Rivoli's Castle.
Never stop in front of doors, gates, signs
and shutters: go inside it is the only way
to fully taste the city that, within its imposing
buildings, hides fascinating secrets.
An example? In the central via Po, more
precisely inside the courtyard of the Turin
University palace, you can meet busy
students,annoyed by the length of queues
in the administrative offices, rather indifferent
to the architectural structure and
sober proportions of the building... that
probably only tourists really admire! And
along the same street, going past the
magnificent portal of the Counts Prunas-Tola Palace (via Po 39), from inside the
courtyard you can observe the Mole from
a special angle.
The most surprising discovery,
however, lies behind via Po, in via
Verdi: entering the Cavallerizza Reale you have the impression of being inside a
country village. Observe each courtyard
carefully because its details will remain
impressed forever in your memory. The
trick is always the same: every doorstep,
a new wonder.
The noble palaces offer
elegant courtyards, the more popular buildings
fascinating running balconies. Still
in via Po, you can find the historical Caffè
Fiorio: given that prices are geared to the
wealthy, with a bit of courage you can enter
just for a cup of coffee.The same holds
for the Caffè Baratti, inside the elegant
Galleria Subalpina (Sub-alpine Gallery)
(foto) connecting piazza Castello and piazza
Carlo Alberto.
Such a calm reigns there that - when walking
through it - people spontaneously
start to whisper.
Similarly, the San Federico
Gallery, connecting piazza San Carlo and via Roma, offers the same peace and
quiet, and the luxurious cafés and restaurants
all seem impassable to the passage
of time. Gallery Umberto I (foto) in Porta Palazzo has a more decadent attractiveness
and is actually a bit frightening.
To enter
the city further, it is possible to visit all that
lies underneath: underground Turin extends
at no less than fifteen metres below
ground level and encompasses tunnels,
anti air raid shelters, ice houses once used
as refrigerators for the Porta Palazzo open
air market and alchemy grottoes.
A parallel life revealing segments of the
past that appears at times mysterious and
disquieting.
Info on tours available from the city's tourist
offices (tel. 011/535181).
Wandering around Turin, the best place for
looking inside yourself, whilst continuing
to enjoy the city, is the Po riverbank inside
the Valentino park. The entire area flourishes
in greenery and has some especially
cared for corners like the "Giardino
roccioso" (Rock garden). Walking along
the main paths, at times you're lucky
enough to catch glimpses of rather magnificent
views: the river and the surrounding
hills offer such a romantic setting that
the park is traditionally a lovers' meeting
place! Whilst in the park it is worth exploring
the Borgo Medievale (foto). Many believe
it to be a real remnant of the past but it
was actually built in 1884 as a picturesque
complex faithfully reproducing Piedmontese
and Val d'Aosta castles. It is an
enchanted place and once you set foot in
it, you get lost in observing every detail
and you're moved by being able to touch
what you can usually only read about or
see in paintings.
The huge fountain at the main entrance
immediately offers a cascade of relaxing
notes, thus covering the sound of car engines,
whilst the trees and lawns brighten
the view hazed by the grey cement buildings.
The Villa at the park's centre hosts
a music and dance Library: never too full,
quiet, luminous and welcoming, it is the
ideal place for students who dislike the
always-overcrowded study rooms.
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