THE WITCHES OF TURIN. ARE HERE

Strolling around the centre you get the feeling you're being watched, so you look round... but no one's there. You smile to yourself and carry on walking. But that feeling of not being alone persists. A mocking effigy of a devil smiles at you from a doorway, dolls' eyes watch you from shop windows, a black cat stares at you from a doorstep...

You quicken your pace and you're there, but read carefully, Piazza Statuto.
Full of light and shade, you can sense it.
They tell you that if you look up to the sky you might come up against an astrolabe on top of a small obelisk, positioned on the 45° parallel or "black magic" triangle.
The other two vertexes are in London and San Francisco. It's - better then to lower your eyes, watching out for manholes, though - one of them leads to hell...

Where the "devil" are you?!
You can ask anyone around here: do they know anything about this magic aura that has stupefied you? Some won't tell you of course, just pretending they don't understand: you don't do your washing in public. Chatterboxes of course were just waiting for your question to start telling stories of wizards and witches, mysteries, strange traditions that have been around for ever...

PROPITIATORY RITES

Turin is rich in antique traditions, many of which are connected to the night of 24 June, when Patron Saint Giovanni is celebrated.

It is said in fact that just before the summer solstice, witches would celebrate their rituals.

Song and dance before a bonfire should keep bad spirits away, while flames should reveal the future, love and fortune. Preparation of magic potions, filters and spells, took place when the main elements of such plants were most effective. So, among the flowers dear to San Giovanni is the verbena that protects us from lightning. It is also known as "herb of the cross", as it protects from illnesses, or "herb of double sight", because the infusion helps us see otherwise hidden situations. Every rite has, in fact its plant and its formula. Here are some as they are pronounced.

Witch's word.

GROWTH

"Well, girls of Italy... what are you doing with those old dolls still in your hands? That's enough: get-rid-of-them! It's time to become women. Burn this effigy of misfortune and adversity! Use verbena, and you'll get rid of the jinx".

SPELLS

"Now women, have you made a good fire?! Have you?
Take your husband's goat, or any other animal, and pass it through the smoke.
You'll get rid of illnesses and any bad spells they might cast on you".

HEALTH

"And what can we say about this faded and whitish colour, like female chefs?
Away with it! Plait twigs into circles and throw them around the hills whilst singing and dancing to call for the sun's benevolence: you'll get a great tan!!"

FORTUNE

"Now ladies, you want to get rid of evil yet again?
Then go round the ashes left over from the bonfire three times - yes three times - and run them into your hair and over your body."

LA BELLEZZA

BEAUTY "Women who are slaves to health shops - stop spending money on infusions and creams! You want to look good?
Make the most of the prodigious herbs of 24 June then! Water of San Giovanni: leaves and flowers of lavender, St. John's Wort, balms, rues and rosemary.

Have you picked them? Yes? Put them in a basin, leave them out all night and in the morning wash away all UGLINESS!"

YOUR SIGHT

"You're not just ugly, but blind as well? Use the morning's fresh dew: it will keep your sight good".

ANIMALS

"If on the other hand you're rough farmers, do what our grandparents used to do: gather 24 ears of wheat and for every bunch of 3 rotten wheat ears that you throw in the river, your animals and harvest will be kept away from disease!"

LOVE

"You're at the end of your tether because your mother wants you to marry your next door neighbour? Don't worry - your witch will help you!

Get 3 broad beans: take the peel off one, cut one on the top and leave the third intact - put them under a cushion. The following morning, pick one up at random. The untouched one will bring good fortune and money; the peeled and cut ones... well, try again!"

MARRIAGE

"You haven't got any broad beans? Use a white hen's egg then. Break it open on the night before San Giovanni and put the egg white into a glass or pot full of water.Put it on a window ledge and leave it exposed to good San Giovanni's miraculous dewdrops.

As soon as the sun rises, look at the shape the egg white has taken in the water and you'll understand what your marriage will be like!"

UNFAITHFULNESS

"Girlfriends of Italy, are you worried about your boyfriend being unfaithful? All will be well if you eat kilos of snails on the morning of San Giovanni! Just remember, the snail's antennas represent the moon's cycle of waxing and waning and protect you from mishaps".
The night of Saint Giovanni will bring you health and good luck. Moreover its fireworks are perhaps only modern bonfires which move devils, witches, and evil influences away.