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It is surely no secret that Turin is one of the world's undisputed
capital whrn it comes to the pleasure of the table. The city
has always boasted a food and wine tradition that has earned
it a world-wide reputation based on both the excellence of
its often unique ingredients, like its truffles, and the skills
(almost an art) of its chefs, its pastry cooks and its chocolate-makers.
A triumph of quality that has not been diminished by the move
into industrial production.
The chocolate lover can certainly feel completely at home
in Turin. here after all is where chocolate-making began,
under a royal decree issued in 1678 which authorised its production,
much of it for export.
The "gianduiotto", the city's most celebrated chocolate
sweet, made of a coca-hazelnut paste, dates back to the 19th
century. Since then an infinite assortment of soft-centred,
liqueur-flavoured, praline-enhanced varieties have become
equally traditional and continue to give the addict an agonising
choice.
In Turin, chocolate is also for drinking, and in more ways
than one. Besides a cup of hot chocolate (with or without
whipped cream) that is so deliciously reviving on a winter
afternoon, there is also the "bicerin", a blend
of chocolate, coffe and milk, that was already fashionable
in the 18th century, and the more modern "marocchino",
a cappuccino in a small cup with a milky froth and a final
flourish of chocolate on top.
Another world famous delicacy was invented by Turin's pastry
cooks: the "Zabaglione" -in local dialect "sambajoun"
- a cream of egg yolk, sugar and marsala that takes its name
from a Spanish friar San Pasquale Bayon, an illustrious cook
and the parish priest of Turin's San Tommaso church in the
16th century. Zabaglione is also used to fill anothr local
delicacy, the "bignole" (iced choux pastries), a
special triumph of Turin's pastry making, characterised by
their "mignon"(tiny) form and by th fantasy of an
almost infinite variety of fillings.
Toffees, boiled sweets, fruit-flavoured jellies and nougats
complete a production that transforms any sojourn spent in
Turin into a real temptation: a gourmets paradise.
Wine, the pride of the entire Region, is not a subject that
can be covered in a few lines. Confining ourselves o the true
peaks of excellence, and strting with pre-lunch drinks, it
must be remembered that Turin is the vermouth capital of the
world. The aperitif, invented in 1786 by Antonio Benedetto
Carpano, was the result of steeping thirteen ingredients in
wine. The most traditional version is "Punt e Més"
wich means "point and a half" in Piedmontese dialect,
one part bitter to half a part sweet. At the dinner Table
there are wines to enchant the most refined of palates. Barolo
and Barbaresco are known to wine lovers everywhere, belonging
as they do to the exclusive ranks of wines with an international
reputation. In recent years however, a new generation of wine
growers has devoted passionate attention to the selection
and improvement of various grapewines, guaranteeing an exceptional
"DOC" production, both red (Barbera, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo,
Grignolino) and white (Gavi, Arneis, Favorita, Moscato).
The great wines, that can also be tasted in the many small
taverns "piole", wine-bars and shops, make the ideal
artner for dinner, whose high points are, apart from the local
"bagna càoda" (pieces of vegetables dipped in a
hot garlic, anchovy and olive oil sauce), the fresh pasta
dishes, meats and cheeses.The best known pasta dishes are
the "Tajarin", the "Agnolotti" and "Cappelletti",
which can also be bought hand-made from specialised shops.
The meat dishes, boiled ("buji") or braised in wine,
are another classic in Turin cuisine, while the selection
of cheeses would embarass any food lover because of the quality
and wide range of chioce - from the freshest "tomini"
and "robiole", to the "tume" that come
in a variety of strenghts and flavours: a production that
challanges for first place with nearby France.
Finally the famous "grissini" (breadsticks) of
Turin must not be forgotten. As long ago as 1663, a French
dictionary quoted the "pain long du Piémont" (long
bread of Piedmont). The fame of the fragrant and tasty breadsticks,
known as "stirà", goes back to the time when, according
to legend, they were served to tempt the appetite of the sickly
boy-king Vittorio Amedeo II. Today, it is possible to buy
the "stirà", together with the robatà",
a thicker version with less yeast, a more solid texture and
a rougher surface.
Gourmet in Turin
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